(Don’t) Drive in India

February 3rd, 2010 1 comment »

Someone sent me a funny-but-true piece on driving in India; it’s attributed to Coen Jukens, ostensibly an employee of the Dutch software firm Baan, who spent a couple of years in Hyderabad. I couldn’t find anything more on Jukens, so I don’t know if the attribution is correct or not. Baan (later acquired by Infor Global Solutions) opened its Hyderabad office in 1998. The earliest version of the article – which has disseminated across the Internet – seems to be from the year 2000.

In the ten years since, I doubt the article has become any less accurate – except that the speed of traffic in all major cities has slowed to a crawl during much of the day. (The picture below was taken in Delhi.)

I stand by my book’s recommendation – expats and visitors to India should not attempt to drive there. Hire a car with a driver instead, read the article, and be not daunted.

Keep Distance...

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DRIVING IN INDIA by Coen Jukens (2000?)

I visited Mumbai recently and agree with the observations about driving. For the benefit of every Tom, Dick and Harry visiting India and daring to drive on Indian roads, I am offering a few hints for survival. They are applicable to every place in India except Bihar, where life outside a vehicle is only marginally safer.

Indian road rules broadly operate within the domain of karma where you do your best and leave the results to your insurance company.

The hints are as follows:

Do we drive on the left or right of the road? The answer is “both”. Basically you start on the left of the road, unless it is occupied. In that case, go to the right, unless that is also occupied. Then proceed by occupying the next available gap, as in chess.

(The rest of the article is under the jump…)

» Read more: (Don’t) Drive in India

Bt Brinjal and the Great GMO Debate

January 25th, 2010 No comments »

India’s considering legalizing genetically modified brinjal – the vegetable otherwise known as eggplant or aubergine. (Or baingan or kathirikai.) It’s a popular vegetable in Indian cuisine.

In October 2009, the Genetic Engineering Approval Committee (GEAC) recommended approval for transgenic eggplants that would resist the shoot borer, a major pest. (It doesn’t protect against bacterial wilt, a different major pest.) The main US player, naturally, is Monsanto, through the Indian company Maharashtra Hybrid Seeds  Co (Mahyco).

There’s been a storm of protest. Activists, farmers, and political leaders are upset. Some have actually called it poison.

Minister for the Environment Jairam Ramesh  has asked for further investigation and public input, while Minister for Food and Agriculture Sharad Pawar is pushing for its introduction.

Meanwhile, the Chief Ministers of the three largest eggplant-producing states have said they do not intend to grow Bt Brinjal. (West Bengal, Orissa and Bihar together account for over 60% of India’s eggplant production.)

Why the controversy?

» Read more: Bt Brinjal and the Great GMO Debate

Terrorists and India’s New Visa Requirements

January 14th, 2010 No comments »

If you have an American visa (or a European one), you can visit most countries free of visa requirements.

India’s not one of them. Almost all foreigners need visas for India. (Citizens of five countries qualify for 30-day visas-on-arrival.) In fact, India has a whole bunch of visa categories: Tourist,  Business, Journalist, Conference,  Transit visa, Entry Visa,  Employment, Student, Missionary, Research, Sports.  Recently, thanks largely to a single terrorist, the rules were tightened further.

India had always given long-term multiple entry tourist visas to foreigners who wished to visit the country regularly. Thousands of visitors took advantage of it, including people who used it essentially as a business visit visa.

David Coleman Headley allegedly used it for a more nefarious purpose – to research potential targets in Mumbai ahead of the horrendous terror attacks on the Taj Hotel, the Oberoi Hotel, and a major train station among others.

The Indian government will now prohibit a visitor – even one with a multi-year, multiple re-entry visa – from returning in under two months. Exceptions may be permitted with an advance itinerary – if for instance your travels take you into other countries and back through India for two or more short stays.  However, if the total period exceeds 90 days (or 180 days, depending on the visa), then the two month gap becomes a requirement.

The government is also becoming stricter about the de facto use of tourist visas for other purposes – like business.

People with Overseas Citizen of India (OCI) or Person of Indian Origin (PIO) status do not need to get Indian visas, no matter what nationality they have.

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We’ll all get used the the new visa rules eventually. But meanwhile, the first, very public, evidence of the visa inconvenience showed up in the Indian press. » Read more: Terrorists and India’s New Visa Requirements

Virus-Warriors in Chennai

January 8th, 2010 6 comments »

Oftentimes, Americans talking about outsourcing offshoring have stories of  clueless youngsters with incomprehensible accents. I’ll admit that I’ve encountered inefficiencies and poor training; my experience as a consumer hasn’t been all good. One airline managed to give me four mutually exclusive answers to the same question…

But that’s not what I want to write about today. Today, it’s kudos to the Microsoft security people based in Chennai.

My computer had been colonized by the Alureon CT trojan, or actually rootkit . I didn’t even know: Norton Internet Security, (which is what I had) doesn’t see it, let alone block it. Then one day, someone suggested downloading Microsoft Security Essentials. It found Alureon CT, cleaned the computer, and then suggested I restart the machine. I did. And within minutes, Alureon was back.  (Norton still showed nothing amiss.)

Rinse and repeat.

The infection explained some weird things that had been happening – like search hijackings, where clicking on a link took me someother-place.com. I’d attributed it to my computer aging and becoming incompatible with updated search engines. The thing is insidious; it keeps very quiet, but  it can steal passwords and make your computer part of a network outside your control.

I also found that getting rid of Alureon was Not Easy. Someone on one forum opined “formatting and reinstallation of the operating system is the only sure way…

Someone else suggested opening a support file with Microsoft“Start here – https://support.microsoftsecurityessentials.com/ and select the link that says I think my computer is infected and then select the support option for phone (or email if phone is not offered for your region).”

» Read more: Virus-Warriors in Chennai

Does Haagen Dazs Head Office Know?

December 16th, 2009 4 comments »

There’s an update at the bottom of this post.

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When Haagen Dazs, the super-premium ice-cream company owned by the US corporation General Mills, recently announced it would be opening its first store in India in New Delhi, they probably weren’t ready for the internet sh*tstorm that was about to descend.

Someone sent me an article from a Times of India blog. The Haagen Dazs ice-cream franchisee in Delhi decided on a grand opening that involved a special preview for international travelers: “Access restricted only to holders of international passports.” Those international passports did not apparently include Indian ones; when the blogger’s friend “Ramit” tried to enter, he was turned away.
Haagen Dazs small
It’s already up on Boing Boing, one of the internet’s most influential blogs.

Foreign companies do sometimes make mistakes in their assessment of Indian markets and consumers. It’s usually carelessness or cultural obtuseness. This time, though, the problem seems to be home-grown. The franchisee is Indian; the location is Indian; and the man reportedly denied entry is Indian.

The embarrassment is truly multinational. The internet knows no borders.

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For companies, it suggests that apart from avoiding self-inflicted wounds like this one, it also makes sense to have a corporate policy for dealing with any issue that is likely to capture the public eye. There’s no such thing as far away.

Between blogs, social media, and people willing to “boost the signal”, it is impossible to *contain* such problems. They have to be responded to, and defused.

Right now, apologies would be good. And maybe some explanation: What was the man thinking?

There isn’t anything on the websites of Haagen Dazs, or of General Mills, as of Dec 15th, anyway.

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Followup: An article in India’s Economic Times, says the local manager claims it was all a mistake. The banner was supposed to imply that the ice-cream would be bringing a European flavor to India (though the brand is a US one.) And apparently Ramit was excluded not because he was Indian, but because the store was too crowded. Tempest in a teacup or frantic damage control? Difficult to tell, but better than nothing.

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2nd Followup: Anu Bhatia, of General Mills India, sent us this response (click on “read more”)…

» Read more: Does Haagen Dazs Head Office Know?

A Different Disney Product

December 12th, 2009 1 comment »

All the buzz right now is about The Princess and the Frog, the new Disney movie using old techniques and starring an African-American princess.

But today, I came across a completely different Disney product:

disney spinach

I was curious about this strange brand extension, so I looked online. It turns out that Disney diversified into veggies back in 2006, after ending its Happy Meals contract with McDonalds. They’re marketed through Imagination Farms, based in Indianapolis. And of course it’s not just spinach, it’s avocados and broccoli and oranges and persimmons and lots of other fruit and vegetables.

Good move. The company is staying ahead of the great junk food debate.

The Non-resident Indian’s India

December 6th, 2009 4 comments »

A recent article in in the Wall Street Journal’s online edition was forwarded to a newsgroup I frequent. Called “The Brain Boomerang,” it spoke about Indians who, after years in the US, go back to India.

When researching my book, India Business Checklists, I met people in just this situation. Some find it more difficult to adjust that do non-Indian Americans who’ve never lived there. Returnees look Indian, may still speak Indian languages. But India’s so different from the West, they have a hard time doing business there, or even dealing with the million small hassles of daily life. Others, even if frustrated, are better at dealing with India than Western people who don’t have third-world experience.

Me, I love visiting India and feel right at home there. A line in the article resonated with me: “Leaving India makes you love it, too. Hustle. Innovation. Growth. Golgappas.

blue manBut researching my book was frustrating. Traffic was a major problem. I could barely manage 1-2 interviews a day in person: I had to allow an hour or two of transit time each way because of unpredictable traffic jams. Unlike before – and unlike many Asian cities – the business centers are now dispersed, so interviewees might be anywhere. (On the other hand, people were very helpful, giving me information and introductions.)

People who have projects in India find it harder yet. Here’s the experience of one manager, who responded on the newsgroup. (If the language is unguarded, it wasn’t meant for publication until I asked permission to put it here. Anonymously.)

——

“Having worked in India for over six years after [graduating from an Indian Institute of Management], then moving to the US for 20+ years, I think I have an idea of both sides – yes, current India too, to an extent, since I go there at least two or three times a year for work.

The biggest issue is corruption – totally rampant. You nearly need to pay someone money to scratch your butt (I’ve personally done the cash-in-briefcase-to-govt-official thing).

“Second, the idea of infinite time – commitments mean little.

“Third, the endless hustling to get anything done.

“On the plus side is the refreshingly aggressive, can-do attitude that the current kids have – I would really like to see them land a succession of powerful kicks on the backsides of slothful babus whose main role seems to be to gum up the works.

“Bigger picture, I don’t think Mother India is mentally ready for the responsibility that a democracy entails. Autocratically run businesses – most of them – do well; democratically managed enterprises – government operations, for example, are mired in self-generated goo.

“Yes, there is always the issue that the government subsidized my education [note: Higher education in India is tax-payer-subsidized] and I need to repay it, that I am a gaddar who got my MBA on some poor guy’s khoon-pasina [blood and sweat] etc.

True. I tried to repay, but they want it in a plain, unmarked brown envelope, small denominations.”

Labor Trouble and Death in the Line of Duty

November 30th, 2009 1 comment »

Soldiers might expect it. Business executives generally don’t. But in September 09, Roy George, a Human Resources professional working at Pricol in Coimbatore was killed by agitating workers. George had joined Pricol – an auto components manufacturer – only months earlier. He was, incidentally, an alumnus of IIM Calcutta, a leading management school and a sister school of my own alma mater, IIMA. Here’s his LinkedIn profile. And here’s his blog.

It was a sad reminder of another labor-related murder that I noted in India Business Checklists: In September 08, Lalit Kishore Chaudhury, the Indian CEO of an Italian-affiliated auto parts company in NOIDA (near Delhi) was also killed by angry workers. (For IIT alums reading this blog – he was IIT/K, I believe 1986.)

But managers aren’t the only ones getting killed; in October 09, Ajit Yadav, a 26-year-old worker was killed during a labor dispute at Rico Auto Industries in Gurgaon. Rico is also an auto components manufacturer.

——–

Quite aside from the human tragedy involved, this leads to the obvious question: Is India’s labor environment deteriorating? The data from the government’s Labor Bureau don’t appear to indicate that.

Industrial disputes in India, 1999-2007

Industrial disputes in India, 1999-2007

This shows a decline in the number of disputes. The Labor Bureau hasn’t yet published any full-year stats after 2007, but the graph below is based on comparing the provisional or estimated Jan-Sept figures for 2007, 2008, and 2009. (I’ve adjusted the 2009 figures to make them roughly comparable.) That, too, seems to indicate things are getting better, not worse.

India Labor Trouble: Jan-Sept 07, 08, 09

India Labor Trouble: Jan-Sept 07, 08, 09

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Yet anecdotal evidence suggest that the number of industrial disputes have risen sharply, particularly in new industrial areas. Some have linked this to national Unions attempting to gain traction with the workers, and companies resisting unionization, trying to substitute in-house unions instead.

Do the data tell the story? They are based on voluntary reporting, and companies may choose not to bother. Also, the estimated data for 2009 may be the least accurate of all; I’ve adjusted 5-month data into 9-month data, but may have underestimated it. The summer of 2009 was reportedly one of the worst periods. When the final numbers come out, in about 2 years, it may show an upsurge in labor trouble.

In this case, the anecdotal evidence is probably the more reliable. The combination of rapid economic growth, critical mass for unionization in some geographic areas, and a sudden slowing of growth in some sectors is a potent combination. Companies situated in new industrial areas need to be particularly cautious.

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Edited to Add:

I received this thoughtful comment from a reader:

” …You need to draw a distinction between legitimate industrial disputes (legal and necessary in any industrialized nation), unauthorized disputes and strikes and lastly, violence in the work place.

“Murder/ physical assault of management and/or workers falls in the last category and should be categorized as crimes – no different from violence resulting fom mob frenzy fomented by political or religious strife.

“So, the number of disputes and violent crimes are not necessaily correlated.”

Good point. The deaths may be more correlated with general levels of violence and and anger in society, rather than the number or severity of labor disputes.

Naan Dog at Narita

November 23rd, 2009 2 comments »

naan dog

Yesterday, at Narita airport in Japan, I encountered an interesting new product: The Naan Dog.

I was intrigued. It spoke of innovation, globalization, and adaptive palates all at the same time. The Naan Dog product was clearly fusion, though I wasn’t sure what had fused with which.

The Naan has clearly become a common enough product that people understand the word – even in Japan. And “dog” implies that all English-speakers would understand the word to mean a sausage, derived from the American “hot dog,” rather than as something canine.

Naturally, I ordered one. It was a sausage on a mini-naan – exactly as pictured – garnished with Japanese curry sauce (derived from the British version of Indian curries) instead of the traditional ketchup and mustard. So I’d say its roots are Germanic-American/North Indian/ Japanese-British. [ETA: Or maybe Pakistani, as much as Indian. The "naandog" in decorative script border at the top of the poster may have been designed to resemble Urdu.]

It tasted pretty much as you’d expect. Not bad, for an innovative fast food eaten standing at a counter at an international airport.

Edited to Add: My friend Srilata wanted to know if it bore any relation to Slum Dog.

Naan Dog Millionaire? Could happen. Even if only a yen-millionaire.

Corruption in India: Worse?

November 18th, 2009 2 comments »

As I noted in India Business Checklists, there’s no getting round it: India has a problem with corruption. At the time, I posed the question to the people I interviewed: Is corruption getting better or worse? I got a mixed response.

Well, Transparency International recently released their 2009 report on Corruption Perceptions across 180 countries. When I saw India’s rank – 84th – I went Ouch! In 2007  this organization ranked India at 72 (on par with China and Mexico). In 2009, India ranks with El Salvador, Guatemala, Panama and Thailand. Serbia is ahead (83), as is Burkina Faso (79).  China also slipped in the rankings, but only to 79th.

Lighter is better

Lighter is better

When I looked at the actual score, though, I found the situation somewhat less dire. Transparency International scores countries on a ten-point scale, where 10 is the best, and 1 the worst. In 2009, top-ranked New Zealand made 9.4 , and Somalia 1.1 at the bottom.

India came up with 3.4, which is of course not great, but also not that far behind China’s 3.6 score. In fact, if you look at ten year’s worth of surveys – as I did in the graph- you find India’s score (green line) has actually been rising, while its rank (red line) has been bouncing around between 69 and 90.

India: Corruption Indicators

India: Corruption Indicators from Yr 2000-09

So what’s the takeaway? By this measure, Indian corruption seems to be improving gradually – but perhaps not as fast as in other places. A rank of 84 is still a problem. On a global scale, “acceptable” levels of corruption are going to be set by nations such as the US (graph below) and Japan (Rank this year 17th, score 7.7).

USA: Corruption Indicators over Ten Years

USA: Corruption Indicators over Ten Years

ETA: Just as a coda, I came across this amusing story in my friend R. Balakrishnan’s weblog. Comic, but serious.